O'zapft is. Not in Munich, where the Oktoberfest is cancelled again this year. In Berlin, however, there are double Wiesn joys. The traditional festival is being celebrated on Friedrichstrasse these days. The location couldn't be more up-to-date and rich in tradition. With its reopening, Maximilians finally gives Berlin a new pub.
Completely redesigned and with Hacker-Pschorr not only a new, but a unique beer on tap: the Berlin Maximilians is the only taproom outside Munich with the Edelhell from the wooden barrel. You have to hand it to the Bavarians. They understand contemporary coziness.
In the large, meter-high guest room - there are also two outdoor areas - a gallery runs along the floor-to-ceiling windows. High tables here, seating niches there, chairs, tables, the ergonomically shaped benches, the wall paneling and the plank flooring, everything is made of high-quality and durable solid wood. Plus blue tiles, gold Hacker-Pschorr lettering and minimalist chandeliers.
The centerpiece in Maximilian's flagship store is a glass cube vis-à-vis the spacious counter. Walk-in wine refrigerators were yesterday. At Maximilians, whose main entrance is on Kronenstrasse, the future is here: a walk-in, glass beer fridge. Ice blocks cool 50 small, hand-filled 30-liter kegs.
The noble pale is full-bodied, light, and spicy, with balanced malt flavors. Fruity, paired with a subtle honey sweetness, the Hefe Weisse tastes refreshing and tangy. In addition to these and other draft beers, Hacker-Schorr presents bottled beers such as the malty-sweet Munich Dark as well as two non-alcoholic barley juices.
An appetizing large Weißwurst pretzel photo hangs on a pillar. Classically, the Brühwurst is only supposed to be eaten early. But landlord Michael Gorski takes it calmly. "He gives the all-clear for the German capital: "Clearly, it can also be eaten after noon. In order not to upset traditionalists or at least to remind Berliners of the old customs, the Weisswurst sausages are a bit more expensive after noon.
"We want to offer more upscale cuisine," says Wirt Gorski. That includes pub classics like Obazda, Brotzeit, Leberkäs, veal patties, sausage salad and browned Leberkäs, as well as specialties from southern German and Austrian cuisines, char filet with sea asparagus and parsnip puree, Steirer-style fried chicken and Wiener schnitzel.
Vegetarian included: caramelized goat cheese dumplings with grapefruit and walnut dressing, beet dumplings with burrata. A must for those who like it hearty is the shank, as a half or whole portion, each with Bavarian cabbage and dumpling. To accompany it in a half-liter glass, Hacker-Pschorr recommends its seasonal, strong and quaffable Oktoberfest Märzen.
Guests can find out how kitchen, keg and bottled delights harmonize from a booklet on the table. "Echt Bier" is the name of the nicely presented and comprehensible read, from which beer descriptions and suggestions for dishes that go well with it can be taken.
With the reopening and the wooden beer barrel dispensing, a circle has closed in the capital's gastro scene. The Bavarians have been in Berlin before - and now, just 400 meters from the former serving location, the Pschorr-Haus, they are once again tapping for beer enthusiasts.